Written By Cynthia Unninayar

Coloured gemstones, with their vibrant hues and captivating allure, have always held a special place in the hearts of jewellery enthusiasts, and 2024 promises to be no different. Designers and gem dealers from around the world share their thoughts on what will be the major colours and gems for the coming year.  

“When it comes to colour, it depends where you are in the world,” comments Ioannis Alexandris, chief executive officer of Gemolithos. “In Europe, sapphires are supreme, especially blue, although in southern Europe, notably Greece, yellow-green gems such as peridot are in demand.” He also sees more interest in pastel gems. “In China, the main colours for next year will be the same as this year, mainly green and then red.” He notes that jade reigns but that emerald and tsavorite are gaining favour. The popular reds will be ruby, rubellite and spinel. 

Sabrina Lee, designer at Green G, agrees. “The main colour trend next year in China is still green, as reflected by the love of jade. While emerald is appreciated, it’s getting more expensive, with a growing trend for green tourmaline as an alternative.” Elsewhere, particularly in Japan, she sees a rising appeal for opal, as “customers look for more elegant and creative designs.”

Sharlinn Liew, designer at Kavant & Sharart, says, “We feel that a lighter shade of emerald is doing very well for us, as are lighter shades of spinel and Paraiba tourmaline. On the other hand, we have had more requests for hot pink sapphire. We don’t typically have it in our collection, but we do create bespoke pieces for our clients.”

“Pink is popular, especially pink sapphire, kunzite and opal,” explains Ankit Malpani, designer at Jewelry by Art. He adds that peridot is also rising in popularity, as are coloured diamonds, while indicating that “French enamel is coming back combined with gems and, in India, the Mogul trend is popular with blue sapphire inlaid designs.” 

Also observing an increased demand for pink gems, Caroline Chartouni, designer at Caroline C, says they will continue their popularity next year, in soft and bold shades, especially pink sapphires. “A major trend, however, is Paraiba tourmaline,” she says. Because of its vivid neon-blue tones, “it will be one of the most popular gems,” adding that the gem’s greener tones and lighter shades will also be appreciated.

Zoe Michelou, director of Imperial Gems, expects sapphires to continue to captivate with their timeless classic blue, alongside the rising allure of teal tones. She also notes “a noticeable surge in appreciation for pink and purple sapphires, while newcomers include vivid yellow and fiery orange sapphires, with the latter gaining strength due to the appreciation for Spessartite despite limited production.” Green gemstones, from minty shades of tourmalines to the elegance of tsavorite and emerald, will maintain their popularity, “with increasing demand further driving up their prices.”

“We have certainly seen the popularity of teal and parti sapphires over the last five years,” comments Susie Robson, director of Sovereign Gems, “which we expect to continue into next year.” Aside from blue, she foresees other sapphire colours, such as yellow and pink, to be sought-after, while emerald continues as a favoured gem. “Unheated ruby and natural alexandrite are two others that have been requested a lot, and we expect them to still be popular next year. It’s all about colour.”

Niveet Nagpal, president and designer at Omi Privé, explains, “I think different shades of blue and pink will be popular in 2024. Soft aquatic blue to green-blue seem to be picking up in fashion and home design. Cobalt spinel, cornflower blue sapphire, shades of tourmaline, and even aquamarine fall into this colour category. Pink has been hot from the Barbie effect, and I think that will continue in other lighter and softer pinks and blush colours. Pink sapphire, tourmalines, spinel, and Padparadscha sapphires should benefit from this trend.” 

Grant Hamid, director of Hamid Bros, reveals, “After a couple of quiet years, we’ve noticed a surge in demand this year for pink sapphire and [a price increase,]” adding that Sri Lankan and Madagascan blue sapphires are “perennially in high demand, but supply has become difficult which tends to increase demand and prices, but doesn’t appear to inhibit sales.” He says emerald is a consistently good seller, and “fine quality always sells.” In an array of hues, green, pink, and teal, demand for tourmaline has been high. “Blue and golden zircon is an under-utilised gemstone that is gaining more appreciation, and demand has surged, especially in blue.”

Elke Berr, designer at Elke Berr Creations, observes that “the most prominent trend next year continues to be sapphire, traditional blue, of course, from light to dark, along with a darker velvety colour as seen in Royal Blue sapphires.” She adds that blue-green and teal sapphires will also be strong. “Another strong trend will be to balance bold colours with soft grey and deep black, creating a play of light and dark, especially with various shades of diamonds.” 

Another trend for 2024 is multi-gem-set jewellery, which not only showcases the individual beauty of each stone but also symbolises diversity and unity. From the timeless elegance of sapphires and emeralds to the vivid allure of tourmalines and opals, the world of coloured gemstones will offer a kaleidoscope of choices in 2024.

All photos are courtesy of the brand listed.

Mogul-style pendant featuring inlaid blue sapphire by Ankit Malpani – Jewelry by Art (India). Faceted blue sapphire from Sovereign Gems (Australia). Faceted emerald from Hamid Bros (Australia). Emerald and diamond earrings in 18K gold earrings by Kavant & Sharart (Thailand). Ring in platinum with a 3.85-ct emerald-cut sapphire accented by diamonds by Omi Privé (USA).

Ring in platinum featuring a 1.75-ct blue tourmaline accented by 0.15-ctw Paraiba tourmaline and 0.56-ctw diamonds by Omi Privé (USA). Faceted pink sapphire from Hamid Bros (Australia). Paraiba tourmaline ring in 18K gold accented by ruby and diamonds by Caroline C (USA). Pink sapphire necklace in 18K gold by Caroline C (USA). One of a pair of earrings featuring 13.75-ct kunzite, 2.37-ctw pink sapphires and 2.20-ctw rose-cut diamonds in 18K gold by Ankit Malpani – Jewelry by Art (India).

Some of the main colour trends for 2024 in gems from Constantin Wild (Germany) are represented by, left to right: Paraiba tourmaline, orange sapphire, yellow sapphire and hauyn, Interestingly, these four gems correspond perfectly to Pantone’s London S/S 2024 colours of Horizon Blue, Wild Sun Orange, Wild Spicy Mustard, and Strong Blue, respectively.

This extraordinary Tella necklace features a Royal Blue sapphire of more than 45 carats, one of the largest unearthed in the now depleted Elahera Mine in Sri Lanka, accented by over 50-ctw of diamonds by Elke Berr Creations (Switzerland).

Ring in 18K gold featuring blue sapphires and opal, with other gem accents by Green G (Hong Kong).

Examples of popular gems and colours for 2024, clockwise from top, 3.8-ct vivid pink Madagascar sapphire, 3.3-ct Nigerian spessartite, 6-ct teal Madagascar sapphire and a 3.0-ct Nigerian spessartite from Imperial Colors (Thailand).

Selection of various coloured sapphires from Sovereign Gems (Australia).

Multi-coloured gemstone jewellery is also popular as in this emerald and pink and blue sapphire ring in 18K gold by Kavant & Sharat (Thailand).