written by: Nathan King

Who would have thought that an engineer would transition to a trade like bench jewellery? Certainly not many engineers I know, though I have discovered a few who have made the switch successfully.

In mid-2022, I was a successful civil engineer in my forties, thriving in an international career but yearning for a creative outlet. Looking back, I had no idea what I was about to embark upon. While vacationing in Australia, my family and I stumbled upon jewellery at an online auction, and it struck me: jewellery design could be the creative escape I had been searching for! However, my engineering mindset intruded, prompting me to ask, “How can you design something if you don’t know how to build it?”

A quick Google search for online jewellery training led me to Jewelry Training Solutions and their apprenticeship program. Complete with a recommended list of tools, I promptly grabbed my credit card and ordered the beginner’s kit, uncertain about how far this journey would go or if this hobby would stick

The apprenticeship program consists of ten levels, featuring several projects at each stage. Although only three projects are required per level to qualify for completion, I chose to tackle all the projects as I progressed. This comprehensive approach greatly aided my development, as my virtual instructor, Peter Keep, employed various techniques depending on the projects I selected.

Eighteen months later, I found myself collaborating with a Spanish designer, Elena, to create the engagement ring for my fiancée, Jane. I had sourced a stunning Mahenge Garnet and a fancy-cut blue Tourmaline from a supplier in Thailand, envisioning how the pink and blue stones could represent my son and daughter. Both stones were pear-shaped, and, at the time, I was influenced by a double headed snake ring as a starting point.

The design intent symbolized how our children connect Jane and me, bringing color and vibrancy to our lives. I explored various arrangements, including intertwined, double, and single shank options. Initially, we incorporated diamonds, ranging from several to just two representing Jane and myself. However, drawn to color, I moved away from diamonds and developed the concept using various shaped and colored gems.

Elena suggested incorporating my children’s initials into the base of the setting, which I loved. The design evolved beautifully, providing a lovely flow from the tip of the setting through to the shank. It appeared lifelike and strong, with a thick oval shape at the base of the finger gently narrowing to the main settings. To further decorate the base of the settings, we employed intricate filigree. Finding the right balance for the various shaped colored gems took time, and I experimented with different setting techniques using both bezel and prong settings to achieve the desired effect.

Once the design was complete, it sat in my drawer for nearly six months. While it was wonderful, it was far more complex than anything I had built to date, and I needed time to consider my approach. In early 2024, I chatted with a jeweler I had met online, who had been following my progress and was always there to answer my many, sometimes simple, questions. I had been contemplating acouple of different business models, utilizing fairly simple designs, when he challenged me to push my abilities and create something amazing and unique. Unbeknownst to him, I had the design for just such a piece sitting in my drawer.

With his encouragement, I mapped out how to build it and opted to utilize silver to prototype the more complicated components.

The build commenced with a single piece of 4.5mm square 14k yellow gold stock. I rolled out material for the main setting base and sheet for the settings of the smaller stones. I drew down wire for the prong settings, ensuring I had enough stock for the shank.

The most challenging aspect of the build for me was forming and inserting the filigree into the base of the setting. It took multiple attempts to shape the spirals perfectly so they would press-fit into the setting, as any lack of tension would prevent the solder from adhering.

I formed all the various settings from sheet material, employing saw cuts and mitre joints at bends, and utilized pliers for curves. I used clay for positioning and soldering the settings together, primarily working with a Smiths No. 3 torch.

Once all the settings were formed and assembled, I focused on the shank. This part of the design was as crucial to me as the rest. I spent time rolling and hammering the shank to achieve a flowing oval shape that embodies nature within the piece. Using a combination of clay and claws, I soldered the main settings to the shank, ensuring everything aligned perfectly in all dimensions. This part of the build was less challenging than I had initially anticipated.

With the primary build complete, I faced the nerve-wracking task of setting the stones, including emerald, ruby, brown quartz, aquamarine, sapphires, amethyst, and orange garnet, followed by the main stones. I utilized thermolock for a solid base for my settings and worked under a microscope. I approached the setting methodically, ensuring I had solid bases for the stones and appropriate depths for bezels, as well as adequate holes in the prongs to prevent any stones from being damaged during the process.

I could not be prouder of this ring; from the flowing shape of the shank to our children’s initials nestled within the main settings, it is perfectly balanced with vibrant colors and symmetry. This intricate hand-formed ring has retained its integrity, looking as beautiful today as it did when I completed it nine months ago.

As for my workshop, I now have the essentials for a well-equipped space on the second floor of our apartment, where I can create almost everything except for casting. I have recently invested in laser equipment for precise design transfers, enhancing my accuracy in crafting.

This trade has a strong pull on me, and I am committed to making it my full-time gig once I align with the market. I am passionate about producing unique high-end pieces— custom jewellery tailored to commemorate significant moments and of heirloom quality that can be passed on through generations, telling the stories of loved ones long after they are gone.

If I can achieve this, I will be very happy.