Pink diamonds are celebrated for their unparalleled beauty and rarity, but their true allure lies in the diversity of shades they exhibit. From faint whispers of pink to intense and vivid hues, each shade tells a story of geological wonder and market value. For jewellery professionals, understanding how to decipher and evaluate these colour grades is essential for sourcing, designing, and selling these exceptional gemstones.

How Are Pink Diamonds Graded?

The colour grading of pink diamonds follows the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) system, which evaluates three key attributes: hue, tone, and saturation.

1. Hue
• The primary colour of the diamond (e.g., pink) and any secondary tints (such
as purplish or orangish pink).

• Secondary hues can enhance or diminish the perceived beauty and value of the diamond, depending on their appeal to buyers.

2. Tone
• Refers to how light or dark the colour appears.
• Ranges from very light to very dark, influencing the vibrancy of the diamond.

3. Saturation
• The intensity or strength of the colour, which plays a critical role in determining value.
• Diamonds with stronger saturation levels are rarer and command higher
prices

Decoding Pink Diamond Shades

1. Faint to Light Pink
• Characteristics: These diamonds exhibit subtle, delicate shades of pink, often with a pastel-like appearance.
• Market Position: More affordable compared to intense and vivid pinks, making them a popular choice for buyers seeking the allure of a pink diamond without a premium price tag.
• Jeweller’s Tip: Light pink diamonds can benefit from settings that enhance their colour, such as rose gold or designs that maximise light reflection.

2. Fancy Light Pink to Fancy Pink
• Characteristics: These mid-range diamonds offer a noticeable pink hue that is soft yet distinct.
• Market Position: Ideal for customers seeking a balance between price and a visible pink colour.
• Jeweller’s Tip: These shades often pair beautifully with white diamonds or complementary gemstones like pink sapphires to amplify their visual impact.

3. Fancy Intense Pink
• Characteristics: A vibrant pink with striking saturation that captures the eye. These diamonds are rarer than light pinks, making them a favourite among collectors and investors.
• Market Position: Highly desirable and valuable, often featured in high-end jewellery.
• Jeweller’s Tip: Highlight the intensity by using platinum or white gold settings that provide contrast and emphasise the vivid colour.

4. Fancy Vivid Pink
• Characteristics: The most coveted shade, vivid pink diamonds exhibit exceptional saturation and brightness, often appearing electric in their
brilliance.
• Market Position: Among the rarest and most expensive diamonds in the world, frequently setting auction records.
• Jeweller’s Tip: These diamonds need no enhancement; simple and elegant settings let their natural beauty take centre stage.

5. Fancy Deep and Fancy Dark Pink
• Characteristics: These diamonds have a rich, profound colour with darker tones, offering a unique and dramatic appeal.
• Market Position: A niche category that appeals to collectors seeking bold and distinctive pink diamonds.
• Jeweller’s Tip: Highlight the depth of colour with yellow gold or vintage inspired designs for a luxurious and timeless effect

Factors That Influence Pink Diamond Colour

• Size: Larger pink diamonds often exhibit stronger colour saturation due to their ability to reflect light.

• Cut: A well-executed cut can enhance the diamond’s hue by optimising light reflection, creating a more vibrant appearance.

• Fluorescence: In some cases, fluorescence can either enhance or detract from the perceived colour of a pink diamond, depending on its intensity and the diamond’s tone.

• Origin: Argyle pink diamonds are particularly prized for their unique colour palette, often featuring a purplish tint that sets them apart from other sources.

Best Practices for Jewellery Professionals

1. Leverage Certification
• Ensure all pink diamonds come with a GIA or similar certification detailing the hue, tone, and saturation. This transparency builds trust and helps clients understand the value of their purchase.

2. Choose Settings Wisely
• The right setting can dramatically enhance a pink diamond’s colour. For example, rose gold deepens warm tones, while platinum highlights cooler hues.

3.Educate Clients
• Explain the rarity and grading process of pink diamonds to help clients appreciate their unique characteristics and justify the investment.

4.Emphasise Provenance
• If the pink diamond is from a renowned source like the Argyle mine, highlight its origin and associated legacy to add emotional and historical value